In 1882, Houbigant launched the now classic perfume “Fougère Royale”. Perfumer Paul Parquet created a fantasy accord to represent the smell of ferns (Fougère means fern in French). Since then this classic accord has been replicated and extended and evolved into a whole genre of perfumes which is still very much alive today.
The core of the classic accord is that of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss, which together, create a damp, grassy and slightly spicy forest-floor effect. Oakmoss is now very restricted since it was later found to be a skin sensitiser, however veramoss, the core constituent of oakmoss, is unrestricted and the best thing to use as a modern and clean alternative. Bergamot was traditionally almost always used in fougères to create a bright opening. Geranium and Vetiver were also very popular and important tools in the fougère palette. Amyl salicylate can be used give a "clean barbershop" effect, a soapy sheen that makes the accord read freshly laundered rather than rugged (this effect has been very successful commercially). Dihydromyrcenol is a modern watery aromatic aromachemical: It is commonly used to lift the fougère upwards and makes it feel brighter and more contemporary. When constructing, remember that coumarin and moss materials are powerful - not much is needed. The fougère is a very flexible accord and can be tailored down many different avenues to taste. We recommend smelling some example fougère perfumes for reference.
