Perfumer's guide to creating mushroom notes

How to create a mushroom accord in perfumery

Mushroom comes in two registers: The cool, damp, faintly fungal smell of raw white mushrooms, all earthy green freshness, and the warmer, savoury, almost buttery smell of cooked mushrooms. The fresh side is easier to build, which can work at the top to mid as a strange green-earthy signal that pulls a composition into the undergrowth and creates interesting effects in nature inspired accords. 

An easy way to create a mushroom note is via cis-3-hexenyl tiglate, a green-leaf ester that smells immediately of raw mushroom over a grassy cis-3-hexenol undertone (cis-3-hexenol being the molecule responsible for the smell of fresh-cut grass), giving the impression of green mushrooms in a single material. It makes a natural starting point, usually diluted due to its strength. Where the mushroom wants to come through in the setting around it rather than a single facet, Terranol earns its place — a long-lasting base note of mossy earth, camphor and nutty vetiver, carrying its own subtle hint of mushroom, that conjures a damp cave with water running through it. This is a more evocative way to hint at mushroom, building the scene the mushroom sits in rather than just the mushroom, and reaching down into the base whereas cis-3-hexenyl tiglate works higher up.

Mushroom building blocks: